Comme des Garçons, often abbreviated as CDG, is not just a fashion brand—it is a movement that has consistently pushed the boundaries of design, aesthetics, and the definition of beauty in the modern world. Founded by the elusive and visionary designer Rei Kawakubo, the label emerged from Tokyo’s underground scene in the 1970s and went on to challenge and disrupt the global fashion establishment.
This article explores the origin, philosophy, key moments, and impact of Comme des Garçons, tracing how it became a symbol of innovation and rebellion in the fashion industry.
The Origins of Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969, officially establishing the company in 1973. The name, which translates to “like boys” in French, hints at Kawakubo’s early interest in genderless and androgynous clothing—an idea that would become central to her brand identity.
Kawakubo did not come from a traditional fashion background. She studied fine arts and literature, and her unorthodox approach became a strength. Rather than following seasonal trends or appealing to mainstream tastes, she focused on creating garments that were more conceptual and expressive. This perspective quickly set Comme des Garçons apart from other Japanese and Western fashion houses.
Breaking into the Paris Fashion Scene
In 1981, Comme des Garçons made its Paris debut with a show that sent shockwaves through the fashion world. The collection, filled with black, asymmetrical, deconstructed garments, was labeled “Hiroshima chic” by critics due to its somber and radical aesthetic. However, what was initially seen as bleak and anti-fashion eventually gained cult status for its boldness and intellectual depth.
The Paris runway show was a pivotal moment. It not only introduced the world to Kawakubo’s distinct style but also challenged the existing norms of beauty, wearability, and femininity. Comme des Garçons was no longer just a brand—it was a commentary on fashion itself.
Aesthetic Philosophy: Imperfection as Beauty
Central to Comme des Garçons’ design ethos is the idea that beauty lies in imperfection. The brand is known for garments that feature asymmetry, unfinished hems, unconventional shapes, and voluminous silhouettes. Kawakubo often describes her work as the “creation of something new,” rather than following traditional tailoring rules.
The designer often uses clothing as a medium to explore themes such as identity, mortality, gender, and conflict. Many collections are built around abstract concepts, and she is famous for refusing to explain the meaning behind her work. This ambiguity invites the viewer to interpret the pieces in their own way, adding to the label’s mystique.
Beyond Fashion: Comme des Garçons as an Empire
Although known for its high-concept runway shows, Comme des Garçons is a multifaceted empire with numerous sub-labels and collaborations. These include:
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus – A high-end menswear line.
Comme des Garçons Play – A more casual, playful line famous for its heart logo designed by Filip Pagowski.
Comme des Garçons Shirt – A line focused on innovative reinterpretations of classic shirts.
BLACK Comme des Garçons – A more accessible collection with lower prices but the same edgy aesthetic.
In addition to its lines, CDG has collaborated with a wide range of brands, from Nike and Converse to Louis Vuitton and Supreme. These collaborations allow the brand to merge high fashion with street culture, constantly expanding its audience and influence.
Retail Innovation: The Dover Street Market Concept
Comme des Garçons is also known for revolutionizing retail with the creation of Dover Street Market. First opened in London in 2004, this multi-brand, concept store was designed as an “anti-department store.” It combines art installations with avant-garde fashion, creating an immersive shopping experience.
Dover Street Market now has locations in cities like Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, and Beijing, serving as hubs for creativity, emerging designers, and high fashion. These spaces reflect the brand’s philosophy—blurring the lines between fashion, art, and architecture.
Cultural Impact and Legacy
Few fashion designers have had the cultural impact that Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons have. The brand is a regular fixture at the Met Gala and was the focus of the 2017 Costume Institute exhibition, “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between.” It marked only the second time the museum had dedicated a solo show to a living designer (the first being Yves Saint Laurent).
Kawakubo has inspired generations of designers, including Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, and even more mainstream figures like Alexander McQueen and Virgil Abloh. Her influence extends far beyond fashion into art, philosophy, and pop culture.
Controversies and Criticisms
Despite its acclaim, Comme des Garçons has not been without criticism. The brand has occasionally been called out for its lack of diversity on the runway and for cultural appropriation. However, it continues to evolve and respond to cultural shifts, reflecting the complexity of navigating identity and aesthetics in a globalized world.
Rei Kawakubo: The Woman Behind the Brand
Rei Kawakubo is famously private and rarely gives interviews. She avoids the celebrity spotlight and lets her work speak for itself. Her vision is uncompromising, and she often says she designs not to please but to provoke thought.
This uncompromising attitude has earned her both reverence and critique, but it has undeniably made her one of the most influential figures in modern fashion. She continues to oversee the creative direction of all Comme des Garçons lines and maintains her headquarters in Tokyo, operating largely outside of traditional fashion capitals.
Conclusion: The Future of Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons is not merely a fashion brand—it is a cultural force that has reshaped how the world sees clothing, identity, and art. By rejecting conventions and embracing radical experimentation, Rei Kawakubo has created a legacy that transcends the runway.
